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Many ingredients have scientific names which sound horrifyingly ‘chemical’ or synthetic.
For example ‘Behenyl sodium stearoyl lactylate’ maybe sounds as if it’s come from a vast, fuming, slightly sinister chemicals complex, but it is in fact an excellent moisturiser and emollient, derived from an entirely natural combination of rapeseed oil and vegetable oil.
Here we’ve listed the key ingredients most often used in our products, with an explanation of what they are and why they’re used. Also included are some common terms used in skin care, so if you’re not entirely sure why collagen’s important, or where the dermis is, here’s your chance to find out.
Acai (ah-cee-ah) - A native palm from the Brazilian Amazonian region rich in phytosterols, anthocyanins, essential fatty acids, vitamins and fibres. Anthocyanins contained in Acai reduce cell destruction by combating the ageing process. Acai is also a source of essential fatty acids such as linoleic acid, omega-6 and omega-9 that when applied in cosmetic applications promotes nutrition and a healthful aspect to the skin. The phytosterols present are said to regulate the balance and activity of the lipids in the superficial layer of the skin. They are also used in the treatment of dermatitis to stimulate the regeneration process. Açai Oil is certified organic .
Acetyl Hexapeptide 3/Argireline - A combination of six naturally occurring amino acids, this mimics the action of Botox by relaxing the muscle contractions that create wrinkles.Safe, non-toxic and without side effects - unlike Botox.
Allantoin - A botanical extract (ours is of liquorice), allantoin has the ability to help heal wounds, burns, sunburn and skin ulcers, and to stimulate the growth of healthy tissue. It is healing, soothing, and moisturising.
Almond extract/Almond oil/Sweet Almond oil - Almond oil is known for its mildness and is used as a moisturiser and emollient. Ideal in the treatment of dry skin.
Aloe vera (Aloe barbadensis) - An extract from the leaf of the aloe plant. Used mainly for its healing effects and skin softening benefits, it also helps reduce extra oils in the skin.
Alpha-lipoic acid - A highly potent biological antioxidant (400 times more powerful than natural Vitamin E) which acts against reactive free radicals in the mitochondria, where cellular energy is produced. Such free radicals play a major part in the ageing process and scientists believe that additional antioxidants can slow ageing. Alpha-lipoic acid also recycles other antioxidants such as Vitamins C and E, making them more effective.
Amino Acids - Fundamental constituents of all proteins found in the body. In skincare, they work primarily as water-binding agents. Some also act as antioxidants and have wound- healing properties.
Aminophylline - Known as ‘the fat blaster’, used to reduce the appearance of cellulite.
Antioxidant - Antioxidants neutralise free radicals before they attach themselves to the cell membrane and destroy the cell. They are critical in keeping the skin from ageing, acting both internally and externally. One Step contains no less than 17 antioxidants.
Apricot (Prunus armeniaca) - Softens and moisturises. Especially goood for prematurely aged skin.
Arnica - A botanical extract which promotes the removal of wastes from the skin and assists in new tissue growth. Effective in the treatment of reddened or damaged skin.
Ascorbyl glucosamine (Vitamin C) - A combination of L-ascorbic acid and polyglucosamine, derived from sea algae, this works to brighten the skin, reduce skin discolouration and even out skin tone.
Ascorbyl palmitate (Vitamin C) - A stabilised Vitamin C ester, used to penetrate the skin and stimulate both collagen and cellular renewal, and to protect the skin from the effects of the sun at the cellular level. It is a natural antioxidant and moisturiser, sourced from vitamins in plant oils.
Ascophilum/ascophyllum - More commonly known as sea kelp. See ‘sea algae’, below.
Astaxanthin - A natural pigment found in the marine environment (it’s what turns the flesh of the salmon pink) astaxanthin is also an extremely powerful antioxidant, shown to be over 500 times stronger than vitamin E. Sourced from sea algae (ours is from Hawaii, considered to be the most powerful) which also acts as an exfoliant.
Bearberry extract - Used as a skin lightener, and has anti-bacterial and antioxidant properties.
Behenyl sodium stearoyl lactylate - Behenyl alcohol is 100% derived from rapeseed oil and works as an excellent moisturiser and emollient. Sodium stearoyl lactylate is also 100% vegetable derived and is recognised as one of the most skin friendly emulsifiers known. The combination of the two ensures rapid absorption without irritation (most emulsifiers disturb the skin’s natural protective function).
Benzophenone-3 (Oxybenzone) - A UVA absorbing sunscreen ingredient, derived from isopropanol. This is one of the few ingredients in our range of products which is not natural or naturally derived. It is used for its effectiveness in providing sun protection.
Bilberry extract - A powerful antioxidant, high in polyphenols, that stimulates cellular renewal and helps prevent skin cell damage caused by sun exposure and pollution.
Birch sap - Derived from the core of the birch tree, birch sap is used for its antiseptic, astringent and soothing properties.
Bromelain - An enzyme from pineapple and turmeric, used to help reduce the ‘orange peel’ appearance of cellulite.
Burdock/Burdock root - Traditionally used in the treatment of eczema and psoriasis.
Calcium ascorbate (Vitamin C) - A form of vitamin C.
Calcium pantothenate (Vitamin B5) - A form of vitamin B5, used in the treatment of acne.
Calendula oil - An extract of marigold and one of the most versatile herbs in skincare, this is used as an emollient and has anti-inflammatory, antioxidant and antiseptic properties. It helps strengthen capillaries and is used to treat acne and delicate or problem skin.
Capsaicin - A purified extract of capiscums (red chilli peppers) used to reduce itching.
Cardiospermum - An extract of the cardiospermum plant, commonly known as the balloon vine, traditionally used in the treatment of dry, itchy skin. It has a potent but entirely natural anti-inflammatory effect.
Castor oil - Extracted from the castor bean, it acts as a humectant by drawing and holding moisture from the air. This moisturising effect helps condition all skin types and restore dry skin.
Ceteryl alcohol - A vegetable derived emulsifier.
Chamomile/camomile - An aromatic flower used to soothe and moisturise. It has the ability to neutralise skin irritants and is effective in calming eczema and allergic reactions.
Cholecalciferol (Vitamin D) - See vitamin D.
Chrysin - A potent anti-inflammatory and antioxidant, our ingredient is derived from plants of the passion flower family.
Cinamomum zeylancium bark - An extract of cinnamon, a natural anti-bacterial.
Citric acid - From citrus fruits, with astringent properties. Used to adjust pH in some products and acts as a natural preservative.
Cocoa butter (Theobroma cacao) - Used for its soothing, softening and moisturising properties.
Cocamide/cocoamide betaine/cocamidopropyl betaine - Derived from coconut, a mild but excellent skin cleanser and conditioner.
Cocamidopropyl betaine - Derived from coconut oil, a natural foaming agent.
Co Cocomide DEA - Derived from coconut and palm oils, gentle, effective cleansers that clean without stripping away natural oils.
Coenzyme Q10 (Ubiquinone) - Coenzymes are a vitamin-like substance present in every cell of the body. They repair and regenerate skin cells, energising and oxygenating to expel toxins. Levels start to decline around the age of 30 and continue to decrease with advancing years. Coenzyme Q10 protects against fine lines and wrinkles by preventing damage to the production of collagen and elastin.
Collagen (Marine) - Collagen is a protein found in connective tissue. It is a key element of the skin’s support system and is used for its ability to hydrate and hold moisture on the skin. We use marine collagen, containing betaglucan and Vitamin B5.
Colloidal minerals - The ‘energising’ minerals – magnesium, zinc, copper – which stimulate collagen production, together with 16 other ‘essential’ minerals for good health.
Colloidal sulphur - Derived from natural sulphur, this is a mild, soothing antiseptic.
Coltsfoot - A soothing, healing, conditioning herb, containing important amino acids to promote healthy skin and hair.
Copper peptide - Copper is a trace element found in every cell of the body. When combined with small protein fragments known as peptides it stimulates the production of collagen, improving the skin’s elasticity and hydration and thus reducing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
Cornflower extract - From the flower Bachelor’s Button (Centaurea cyanus) it contains allantoin, potassium, calcium and vitamins C and K.
Cucumber extract - A natural anti-inflammatory, cooling and refreshing for stressed, tired skin.
Cyanocobalamin (Vitamin B12) - See vitamin B12.
Cyclomethicone - A herbal extract used as a conditioning agent and emollient, it helps give a soft, silky feel to the skin, and leaves a barrier on the skin to prevent moisture loss.
Cypress - Beneficial in conditions of excess fluid, such as fluid retention.
Deionised water - Water in its purest form. All components that could interfere with the product’s stability and performance are removed. Water itself is an excellent skin conditioning agent, but it has to be provided in such a way that the skin retains it.
DMAE (DiMethylAminoEthanol) - A naturally occurring nutrient, used to tighten the skin and prevent and reverse sagging. Continued use gives a cumulative effect. It also acts as an antioxidant by stabilising cell membranes, protecting them from free radical damage. Additionally, DMAE acts as a natural delivery system, combining with other ingredients to bring them into the inner skin, ensuring maximum effectiveness.
Dermis - The dermis is below the epidermis, which is the skin’s outer layer. The dermis supports the epidermis, providing the skin’s structure, and contains tissue fibres, collagen and elastin. It also contains blood vessels, delivering oxygen and other nutrients.
Dipeptide 2 - Helps improve lymphatic circulation and detoxifies the skin.
D-limonene - Major component of the oil extracted from citrus rind, a natural skin cleanser.
Elastin (Marine) - Together with collagen fibrils, elastins are the protein fibres that give the skin elasticity. Ours is sourced from sea kelp and algae.
Elderflower (Sambucus nigra) - Helps reduce inflammation and irritation.
Emollient - A substance that prevents water loss and has a softening and soothing effect on the skin.
Emulsifier - A substance that allows a fine dispersion of minute droplets of one liquid in another.
Epidermis - The outer layer of the skin, which interacts directly with the environment. It protects by providing a barrier (see hyaluronic acid), by filtering sunlight, and by reducing dehydration. See also Dermis.
Erocalciferol - A form of vitamin D, sourced from vegetables.
Essential oils - Oil obtained from plants by pressing or distillation, usually retaining the taste and smell of the original. They’re called essential as they were thought to be essential to life and were the ‘essence’ of the plant.
Ester - An organic compound formed from an alcohol and an acid by elimination of water, making the ingredients more effective in penetrating the skin.
Ethylhexylglycerin - Natural deodoriser and skin conditioner derived from vegetable glycerine.
Evening primrose (Oenothera biennis) - Used for its enrichening and rejuvenating properties.
Exfoliant - An agent that helps remove dead cells from the surface of the skin, so improving skin tone. One Step uses sea kelp, which is close to the skin’s natural pH, so that no harsh damage is done.
Flavonoids - Antioxidant chemical compounds, widely found in certain fruits, vegetables, nuts and roots.
Frankincense (Boswellia carterii) - For rejuvenating and revitalising ageing and mature skin.
G-Aminobutyric acid (GABA) - GABA is an amino acid produced in the body as a natural muscle relaxant, just as melatonin is produced as the body’s natural sleep inducing agent. It is used in anti-ageing treatments to relax and reduce the appearance of wrinkles. A safe alternative to Botox.
Ginseng extract - Derived from Siberian ginseng, this extract is used as a skin-tightening ingredient.
Glycerine - Used as an emollient and as a humectant. Our ingredient is plant derived.
Glyceryl stearate (vegetable) - Emulsified palm oil derived from natural sources, used as a skin conditioner and emulsifier, one of the gentlest and safest available. It does not block the pores, as most oils would.
Glycine - An Amino acid – see amino acids.
Glycolic acid - A plant-derived AHA (alpha hydroxy acid) and one of the most effective. Used as a water-binding agent and exfoliant.
Grapefruit – Helps to remove excess water from the body, great for treating cellulite.
Grape seed extract - A powerful antioxidant, high in polyphenols, which helps prevents skin cell damage caused by sun exposure and pollution.
Green tea extract - Used for its anti-inflammatory and anti-irritant properties, but also rich in potent antioxidants. It increases the effect of sunscreens and has anti-cellulite properties.
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